Listening to Radio 4 today I heard a debate on the increasing alcohol content of European and New World wines and whether or not it affects the flavour and intensity of the finished product. The consensus is that it does, and not necessarily in a good way. And over the past few weeks there has been a lot of talk about English wines as speculation over the rate of global warming leads to the conclusion that England may soon have a perfect wine-growing climate.
At the Organic Food Awards I sat at the same table as English wine producer Will Davenport, of Davenport Wines, and as it happened we were drinking the Davenport Vineyard 2005 Horsmonden Dry Wine to accompany the goat's cheese and garden leaves starter. The wine was superb. If I'd been blind tasting I certainly wouldn't have guessed that it was an English wine. I'm not an expert on wine in any sense, but I like to drink it and I know what I like. And I liked the Davenport wine enormously. If I'd been pushed to say where it came from, without knowing, I'd have guessed at the Loire, or possibly the Sonoma Valley. But England? Surely not.
The 2005 is selling fast but there is some still available from the Davenport website. Get it while you can.
The week prior to the Awards lunch, I stopped off at a'Beckett's vineyard near Devizes in Wiltshire. The wine was delicious; crisp, dry and aromatic. Paul Langham talked us through his philosophy which in essence is to 'concentrate on the grapes and you will make good wine'. Paul and his wife, Lynn, run the vineyard alongside day jobs and their young family which must make for an interesting life. Plans are afoot to build additional facilities on site, including a bottling plant, which will enable the Langhams to have more control over the winemaking process.
There are several websites with information on English wine and its producers. EnglishWine.com and English Wine Producers are a good place to start. I'm off to begin research in earnest - there are a dozen or so bottles of good English wine on the rack to be going on with.
Friday, September 15, 2006
Tuesday, September 05, 2006
Bordeaux Quay
The Soil Association's Organic Food Awards presentation ceremony was held last Friday at Bordeaux Quay in Bristol with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall handing out the awards to the best organic producers and retailers in a wide range of categories.
Bordeaux Quay is a fantastic place to visit, both to eat and to admire the restaurant itself. The building, created from one of the old sheds on the harbourside, is a superb blend of old and new. The attention to detail is striking and immediately evident in both the design and layout of the space and the materials within it. Having eaten lunch there I can safely say that the same sense of detail is applied to the food.
As you'd expect for a venture in eco-gastronomy the building is an environmentally conscious one: there is no air-conditioning, just well-planned natural ventilation, and the use of light complements the harmonious interior perfectly. How long will it be until every new or converted building combines beauty with being environmentally sound? If Bordeaux Quay shows anything, it is that buildings and interiors are more so much more impressive when emphasis is placed on the quality of materials and workmanship rather than fleeting fashions or trends.
Barny Haughton, chef proprietor of Quartier Vert and the driving force behind Bordeaux Quay, has insisted on a sustainable building policy with a focus on recycling, reusing and minimising the amount of waste going to landfill. This approach connects with the emphasis on local food, which will be largely sourced within 50 miles of the restaurant, and on food education for the community.
In addition to the restaurant there is also a brasserie, deli, bar,bakery and cookery school, all under one roof. It's a testament to this the care taken with this building that the new blends almost seamlessly with the old, so that you have to look carefully to see where different components end and begin. The result is refreshing. Kevin McCloud would no doubt be in seventh heaven. If you're eating there, you might well be too.
Bordeaux Quay is a fantastic place to visit, both to eat and to admire the restaurant itself. The building, created from one of the old sheds on the harbourside, is a superb blend of old and new. The attention to detail is striking and immediately evident in both the design and layout of the space and the materials within it. Having eaten lunch there I can safely say that the same sense of detail is applied to the food.
As you'd expect for a venture in eco-gastronomy the building is an environmentally conscious one: there is no air-conditioning, just well-planned natural ventilation, and the use of light complements the harmonious interior perfectly. How long will it be until every new or converted building combines beauty with being environmentally sound? If Bordeaux Quay shows anything, it is that buildings and interiors are more so much more impressive when emphasis is placed on the quality of materials and workmanship rather than fleeting fashions or trends.
Barny Haughton, chef proprietor of Quartier Vert and the driving force behind Bordeaux Quay, has insisted on a sustainable building policy with a focus on recycling, reusing and minimising the amount of waste going to landfill. This approach connects with the emphasis on local food, which will be largely sourced within 50 miles of the restaurant, and on food education for the community.
In addition to the restaurant there is also a brasserie, deli, bar,bakery and cookery school, all under one roof. It's a testament to this the care taken with this building that the new blends almost seamlessly with the old, so that you have to look carefully to see where different components end and begin. The result is refreshing. Kevin McCloud would no doubt be in seventh heaven. If you're eating there, you might well be too.
Friday, August 18, 2006
Aberdyfi
Our visits to Aberdyfi can cause a lot of confusion when people ask where we are going on holiday. 'Abu Dhabi? How exciting'. 'No,' I reply, 'Aberdyfi, it's in Wales.'
I suspect that those who know where Abu Dhabi is far outnumber those who could find, say, Machynlleth on a map. Although Machynlleth (the nearest town to Aberdyfi) lays claim to the title of Ancient Capital of Wales few people outside Wales know where it is. Only one person with whom I have had the 'where are you going on holiday?' conversation with knew precisely where Aberdyfi could be found, because she and her husband used to have a stake in a restaurant there.
Anyway, Aberdyfi is a delightful seaside village tucked into the hills of the Snowdonia National Park. The harbour is filled with boats that change direction with the tide, the houses and shops on the front are tastefully painted in pastel colours and there is even a bandstand perched on top of the cliff.
On the food front Aberdyfi has changed a lot over the past few years. When we first started spending our half-terms and holidays there four years ago things were a lot more hit-and-miss. More usually miss. But things have changed for the better with the opening of several shops and a couple of new restaurants to complement the ever-popular Penhelig Arms.
Derek's Plaice sells Aberdyfi-caught crab and lobster, bass, sole, mackerel, plaice, cod, sardines and turbot, to name but a few. The mackerel pate is a must-have for breakfast, spread generously on warm brown bread on top of a thin layer of unsalted butter. In addition to the fish, Gill sells fresh local vegetables and fruit as well as free-range eggs, flowers and citrus fruit. It seems hard to believe that four years ago we used to take lemons on holiday with us.
Almost directly opposite Derek's Plaice on Copperhill Street, is Cigydd Aberyfi. All the meat is fully-traceable and sourced within ten miles of Aberdyfi. As well as lamb, pork and beef of excellent quality there is also a range of cold meats, pork pies, vegetables and fruit. Later this summer a UK-wide delivery service is being launched.
Further round the square Trevor Pharoah opened Bistro on the Square about a year ago, on the site of the old and much-lamented Grapevine. We haven't eaten there yet because it always seems to be fully booked and I'm never organised enough to book months in advance. If only they opened at lunchtime as well...
And last but not least for this posting: you can now buy a decent espresso in the village. Y Bwtri Blasus make a very nice coffee (Lavazza) to drink in or take away! Since taking over the delicatessen earlier this year the new owners have changed the layout to make the cafe area more attractive and offer tempting platters of locally caught shellfish for lunch. It would be lovely if they opened for coffee earlier than 9am though - when the children have woken up at 6am that coffee is desperately needed.
I suspect that those who know where Abu Dhabi is far outnumber those who could find, say, Machynlleth on a map. Although Machynlleth (the nearest town to Aberdyfi) lays claim to the title of Ancient Capital of Wales few people outside Wales know where it is. Only one person with whom I have had the 'where are you going on holiday?' conversation with knew precisely where Aberdyfi could be found, because she and her husband used to have a stake in a restaurant there.
Anyway, Aberdyfi is a delightful seaside village tucked into the hills of the Snowdonia National Park. The harbour is filled with boats that change direction with the tide, the houses and shops on the front are tastefully painted in pastel colours and there is even a bandstand perched on top of the cliff.
On the food front Aberdyfi has changed a lot over the past few years. When we first started spending our half-terms and holidays there four years ago things were a lot more hit-and-miss. More usually miss. But things have changed for the better with the opening of several shops and a couple of new restaurants to complement the ever-popular Penhelig Arms.
Derek's Plaice sells Aberdyfi-caught crab and lobster, bass, sole, mackerel, plaice, cod, sardines and turbot, to name but a few. The mackerel pate is a must-have for breakfast, spread generously on warm brown bread on top of a thin layer of unsalted butter. In addition to the fish, Gill sells fresh local vegetables and fruit as well as free-range eggs, flowers and citrus fruit. It seems hard to believe that four years ago we used to take lemons on holiday with us.
Almost directly opposite Derek's Plaice on Copperhill Street, is Cigydd Aberyfi. All the meat is fully-traceable and sourced within ten miles of Aberdyfi. As well as lamb, pork and beef of excellent quality there is also a range of cold meats, pork pies, vegetables and fruit. Later this summer a UK-wide delivery service is being launched.
Further round the square Trevor Pharoah opened Bistro on the Square about a year ago, on the site of the old and much-lamented Grapevine. We haven't eaten there yet because it always seems to be fully booked and I'm never organised enough to book months in advance. If only they opened at lunchtime as well...
And last but not least for this posting: you can now buy a decent espresso in the village. Y Bwtri Blasus make a very nice coffee (Lavazza) to drink in or take away! Since taking over the delicatessen earlier this year the new owners have changed the layout to make the cafe area more attractive and offer tempting platters of locally caught shellfish for lunch. It would be lovely if they opened for coffee earlier than 9am though - when the children have woken up at 6am that coffee is desperately needed.
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
Elderflower cordial
The elderflowers are almost over for the year but it's not too late to make last-minute elderflower cordial. Pouring syrup over the elderflowers preserves more of the delicate flavour and fragrance of the flowers than recipes which advocate steeping the flowers and then using the infusion to make the cordial. Many recipes for elderflower cordial list oranges amongst the ingredients but lemons and perhaps the occasional lime will give a cleaner taste.
Elderflower Cordial
1 carrier bag or small basket of elderflowers
2kg caster sugar
1.5 litres water
2 organic lemons
1 lime
75-100g citric acid
Place the elderflowers in a large bowl and leave uncovered to allow any stray insects to escape. Put the sugar and water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Stir until all the sugar has dissolved.
Pare the zest from the lemons and lime and add to the elderflowers. Slice the citrus fruits and add to the bowl.
Pour the hot syrup over the elderflowers and stir well. Add the citric acid and stir again.
Cover and leave to steep in a cool place overnight or for 24 hours.
Strain the cordial through a muslin-lined sieve or colander into a large pan and then pour into sterilised glass or well-washed plastic bottles. Using plastic bottles means the cordial can be kept in the freezer where it will semi-freeze, perfect for mixing with sparkling water for a cold drink without the need for ice.
Elderflower Cordial
1 carrier bag or small basket of elderflowers
2kg caster sugar
1.5 litres water
2 organic lemons
1 lime
75-100g citric acid
Place the elderflowers in a large bowl and leave uncovered to allow any stray insects to escape. Put the sugar and water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Stir until all the sugar has dissolved.
Pare the zest from the lemons and lime and add to the elderflowers. Slice the citrus fruits and add to the bowl.
Pour the hot syrup over the elderflowers and stir well. Add the citric acid and stir again.
Cover and leave to steep in a cool place overnight or for 24 hours.
Strain the cordial through a muslin-lined sieve or colander into a large pan and then pour into sterilised glass or well-washed plastic bottles. Using plastic bottles means the cordial can be kept in the freezer where it will semi-freeze, perfect for mixing with sparkling water for a cold drink without the need for ice.
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